The South-East coast, great plugs of lava jutting out of the sea, the A1, the main arterial road around Iceland, turns to gravel for long stretches!! Waterfall after waterfall, cascading out of the tops of mountains, appearing up glacial valleys with no tourists to spoil the views.

“STOP!’ I shout and slam the brakes on, “Reindeer”, a reindeer and her calf are gently trotting along the water’s edge of a fjord. Back in the car we wondered what we’d see next.

Before the afternoon light gave way to dusk, we drove of to see Hengifoss a very dramatic and high waterfall. The map in the carpark (this was a tourist attraction) explained the waterfall was about 2 miles away and looking up, it appeared it was all uphill!! Nick’s headache prevented him starting, Raof managed to reach Litlianfoss (pictured with Hengifoss in the distance) The route became a bit treacherous after that, about -3º and ice covered rocks with sheer drops to a freezing raging torrent below - and failing light. All worth it because Hengifoss is magnificent.